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--- planning:refurbishment_with_passive_house_components:windows_in_a_step-by-step_retrofit [2016/09/28 14:02] – francis.bosenick@passiv.de
+++ planning:refurbishment_with_passive_house_components:windows_in_a_step-by-step_retrofit [2016/09/28 14:03] – francis.bosenick@passiv.de
@@ Line 52: / Line 52: @@
 [{{:picopen:fig_4_win.png?600|Figure 4: Insulation over casements: a) XPS board notched to size; b) PVC profile inserted with hose seal glued on; c) inserted in the reveal; d) interior view; e) exterior view after plastering}}]
 [{{:picopen:fig_5_win.png?600|Figure 5: Window installation situation at the top with reinforced concrete lintel (U-value of the wall: 1.4 W/(m²K), double-glazed IV68 wood frame. Left: initial situation (Ψinstallation = 0.34 W/(mK)). Middle: with insulated wall (U = 0.12 W/(m²K), Ψinstallation = 0.60 W/(mK)). Right: With insulation over casements Ψinstallation = –0.35 W/(mK): The temperatures remain uncritical everywhere around the installation area; condensate and mould are reliably avoided here, but the edge of the glass remains problematic.}}]
+==== 3.3 Shading/blinds ====
+Here again, the recommendation is to change darkening/shading in the first step for reasons similar to those given in Section 2.3. The roller shutter box can be installed directly on the front-wall mounting system. It is a good idea to have the slats roll to the outside; the guide rails are then farther out and do not have any significant thermal bridge effect. As much insulation as possible should be used between the roller shutter box and the window to reduce the thermal bridge. Alternatively, the composite window solution presented in Section 2.3 can also be used here.